Schubert said, overnight improvement.īob, are you talking about the $80 bar, or do they have other ones? I can think of nothing I've ever bought for any musical instrument that was a better bargain than a Scheerhorn bar. The shape and lower center of gravity seem helpful for reverse slants too. Even if you don't do a whole lot of hammers and pulls, it is much better handling and cleaner sounding than a Stevens, IMHO. If you have any desire to ever do hammer-ons and pull-offs the Scheerhorn is a revelation. The tip is perfect for hammers & pulloffs, because of the way it's beveled from bottom to top you can play single notes cleanly without banging into the string above. It is heavy with a low center of gravity for stability and has a big radius like a round steel bar. When I switched from a Stevens a few years ago, I felt like my control & intonation improved overnight. The Scheerhorn bar is a design marvel for Dobro. At least now I know which direction I want to go.I think. Guess I'll go ahead and get a couple of different ones just to experiment with. I want to thank you all for the advise and council. If you want the bar that produces the best sound for Dobro get one of the small BJS bars the sound is better than any other for acoustic steel playing-PW Let me re phrase that,WHATEVER it is that I'm doing now.
I used it for years.As I began to play steel (non pedal) my playing style and technique changed and I found the Shubb Pearse 2 with it's semi bullet nose better suited for what I am doing now. When I played only Dobro in bluegrass style,the Stevens bar with it's square edges was great for hammer ons and pulloffs.
I'm waiting till I next get to the states to pick one up.Īcoustic steel players might want to give Kelly Joe a listen (if you don't already know him.) - a kind of folk/blues improvised style, all on a regular Gibson acoustic with a high nut.Ĭertainly this is a matter of preference and most probably you will find your own way as bars are not a mojor investment. I guess it's a basic aggressive quality that 'stone' resonator players have.as pertains to the best.Jerry Douglas.ĭifferent style, not really "dobro" playing, but I got to talk to Kelly Joe Phelps after a show here in Paris last year, and he said that the Scheerhorn is WELL worth the extra money. If you play a resonator like a steel, you will sound like a steel player 'trying' to play Dobro.not a Dobro player, which, I guess, is OK.just be wary of bluegrass pickers, 'cause they will eat you up. Bar handling, lift-offs-pull-offs-slams, behind the bar pulls, and slants, and basic picking are totally unique to the Dobro. Something that needs to be addressed, resonator playing is a completely different technique than steel playing. If you're used to a Stevens', it'll double your speed.
Gotta' go with Jim on this one.the Scheerhorn is killer. You can spend more money on those fancy bars, but to me they are harder to use. If it's good enough for Rob Ickes, it's good enough for me.Ĭlay, I would stick with the Stevens. Great for pull-offs with the edge it has. I have tried a couple different styles, but I really like my Scheerhorn the best. It is similar in density to the Stevens bars, so your pressure on the strings can remain almost unchanged. I believe it's a "902" bar, made by Dunlop, sold by Scotty. I'm comfortable with a standard, but smaller pedal steel bar. Is there a particular advantage to this bar? Seems like it would be difficult to utilize the "pulloff" technique which is so common in a lot of the melodies I hear. It's square on one end but has a half rounded bullet nose on the other. I've got the traditional Stevens but I have a friend who showed me a Shubb-Pearce. I just started playing a dobro and was wondering what other pickers are using for a bar. Your profile | join | preferences | help | search What Tone Bar To Use For Dobro? - The Steel Guitar Forum INSTRUCTION
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